Chicken's Road

Newsday - Explore LI

By Joan Reminick, July 2012

 

If you think you know what the eatery called Chicken's Road is all about, you may be only half right. What the name of the counter-service spot doesn't tell you is that it also offers a roadway into the cuisine of Venezuela, the country where its owner, Wang Wong, was born. Brought up by a Venezuelan mother and a father who came fromHong Kong, Wong learned at home to cook boldly, using lots of herbs and spices.

 

It's not surprising then that her eatery's namesake rotisserie chicken proves both spicy and herbal. But, on two occasions, the ultra-crisp skin harbors meat that's slightly dry. On the other hand, the grilled boneless breast in the standout chicken Latin sandwich with lettuce, tomato, onion, spicy cheese and avocado, oozes piquant juices.  

 

You'll want to make a point of ordering the house specialty gallo rice, a hybrid Chinese-South American stir fry that combines rice, chicken, pork and vegetables with Venezuelan seasonings. The supernal pernil -- softly shredded roasted pork in its own juices -- may be had as a main dish or sandwich.  You might also make a meal out of empanadas, neat little turnovers that may be ordered with beef, chicken or pork carnitas inside.